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Friday 31 October 2014

FASHION REPORT SS'15; PARIS FASHION WEEK

Ciao Milano! See again in next season. I’ve a great time observing Milan’s fashion shows and managed to interact and discuss about it with my international bloggers. Based what I’ve observed, most of my readers giving positive feedbacks for this season Milan Fashion Week from Gucci’s signature look back in the 70’s to architecture influenced in Fendi’s collection and ended with glamourous Spanish flamenco Sicily romance by Dolce&Gabbana. Everything has been presented beautifully by our beloved designers. I love Milan City and I adore Italian fashion. I hope one day I've the chance to visit Milan and Florence and not forget the magical Venice too. 
Bonjour Paris! It's one of my biggest dream to live, learn and explore more about this beautiful city. Here, where our beloved amazing couturier born like the late Gabrielle Chanel, the late Christian Dior and the late Yves Saint Laurent. An amazing city with beautiful parks, sparkling lights, historical monuments and locals wore couture on the day. Yes, it's a perfect place for romance and to get inspired. I admire the beauty of Paris, from the city famous landmark Eiffel Tower or Arc de Triomphe, square of love Place Vendome, enchanting of Jardins des Champs-Elysées, the majestic Palace of Versailles to the stunning Grand Palais. Most Paris ladies have fair-healthy skin and look radiant with just light make-up on their face walk confidently poise on the street embracing their designer bag, shoes or beautiful couture tweed jacket to work and I'm amazed on that part.
After long 3 weeks of observing fashion shows and picking what trends will be in this season, it’s time for Paris showcasing their amazing artwork at Paris Fashion Week. It's my top highlight of the month to observe latest creation by top designers under famous brands. For this season, I want to see something fresh and versatile. It's hard to predict what will the designers presenting for each season. That's why I love Paris's fashion. You will experiencing big theatrical shows maybe a relaxed outdoor show or a magical-lavish show only in Paris Fashion Week. I still remember John Galliano's  previous shows for Dior and Karl Lagerfeld's amazing shows for Chanel everything so bold, dramatic and opulent.
 
 
I started my observation with the former Hermès the artistic director of womenswear; Christophe Lemaire. With the force of determination and confidence, Monsieur Lemaire giving all his creative energy to his own brand. This season Lemaire presented his SS'15 collection playing more layering, easy and beautifully tailored with a touch monochromatic palettes. Based what I've observed, Lemaire giving a twist on normal-practical clothes into something different and fresh. You will see from his oversized-layer coat and jacket, cropped trousers, beautiful tunic tops and blazers, dresses in trapeze shape, modern sleeveless jacket, skirts, capelet shirts with button-front to his red trench-dress everything were refreshing, modern and très chic. I love the fabrics that Lemaire used in his collection were more user friendly and easy to maintain. If you love something simple yet with strong statement you should pick Lemaire's collection for your Spring/Summer style.
 
 
I continue my observation with Balenciaga. After receiving good feedbacks of his own label at New York Fashion Week, now at Paris Fashion Week Alexander Wang presented his SS'15 collection for Balenciaga. This season Alexander giving a new turn to this brand that we normally know Balenciaga trends always in the circle of opulence. In this collection you will see more athletic aesthetic as his inspiration. I called it as Sporty Chic. From Balenciaga's beautiful sleeveless long coat with diamond-shaped lattice pockets shimmering beads, maxi trapeze duster coat, sassy sheer tee tops,  long loose dress, sporty bold net tunics, dresses and shorts to beaded jersey knit and net dress with bedazzled beading; everything were perfectly amazing. I love Balenciaga's SS'15 accessories; the shoes and racing glasses. The diamond-shaped pockets on Balenciaga's coats and dresses it reminds me the diamond tiles floor of Cristobal's beautiful atelier. But there's something not very pleasant to hear from few fashion writers critic and said that Alexander copying few Ghesquiere's Fall 2011 designs. I totally disagree that kind of statement because there's two different designers with two different aesthetics both incredibly talented. Maybe because of the similarity elements yet I do believe in this case Alexander's designs were different, better and able to cater the demand of today's heavy-fast trend. Based what I've observed, overall Balenciaga SS'15 collection were fresh, modern and strong.
 

Roland Mouret. Everytime this name pop-up on my mind I always remember his famous "Galaxy Dress". Famous with his clean-fitted silhouettes combines with modern elements it turns so perfect and so right. I'm glad and sure Monsieur Mouret fans know about the news and feel excited that he will open his first store in US at 952 Madison Avenue this coming November. This season Mouret presented his SS'15 collection more straight lines and flare-fitted silhouettes. Mouret's collection beautifully in bold vibrant colour palettes and variety of fabrics like silk and tweed. From Roland Mouret's classy fit midi dresses, one shoulder dresses, zipped cropped jacket, zip collared shirt, wide leg pants, fun flare skirt, halter dresses to his asymmetric top, midi pencil skirt or with artistic handkerchief skirt some heavenly detailed by floral applique and zipper. The whole look will not complete with Mouret's wrap belt, tote bag and clutch, cute sling bag and sassy bright duo-colour strappy heels. Overall, it was refreshing. Something fun and sexy, simply Roland Mouret.
 
 
Cute, Modern and a pinch of Quirky always reminds of Carven. Carven represent today's young Parisian fashionistas. Guillaume Henry the creative director of Carven presented his last artwork before moving to Nina Ricci. It's great to see Carven grows successfully under Guillaume dedication and hard work. This season Guillaume presented his Carven SS'15 collection more 60's A-line silhouettes yet it look very modern and chic. You will see more clean-straight lines with athletic elements plus snakeskin? Simply Carven Chicness. From Carven's A-line dresses, shirt dresses, bold coloured lace dresses, mid-length coat, jackets, bike shorts and tops with snakeskin wrapped around the upper torso to Carven's A-line dresses with artistic graphic Japanese prints. Cool knee high Gladiator style boots and strappy flats with Carven's bag collection complete the whole look. Based what I've observed, overall it's energetic, dynamic and fresh. I love what Guillaume presented. If you need something stylish yet strong after your work out I suggest to pick Carven's top with snakeskin detail partner it with bike short or a simple Carven coat partner with snakeskin A-line dress to hit your day at the office...Uhm...très chic.!
 
 
From Rihanna, Ciara, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley to Kim Kardashian are among top celebrities wore Balmain by the young talented designer Olivier Rousteing. Well known with his amazing work, Olivier show how to be a strong yet fabulous lady in an army uniform inspired Balmain style. This season Olivier presented his Balmain SS'15 collection more structured-sculptured silhouette with a pinch of flowing flare. From Balmain's white sheer wide leg one piece, sleeveless tuxedo with black sheer trouser, caged elements on dresses, skirts and tops, cape waistcoat, cutout blazer with tailored trouser to flowing and structured stripes dresses. I like the caged sandals and cutout leather booties and few Balmain's accessories; gold neck cuff, caged wrist cuff and gold wide waist leather belt. Based what I've observed, the whole collection so dramatic, much more better from last season collection, fresh and modern. Most the designs are wearable and easy to style from day to night. Perfect balance.
 
 
Lanvin, One of my favourite brand from Paris and I love all Alber's artwork. It's so rich yet chic. This year Alber Elbaz of Lanvin celebrating 125th years of the brand anniversary and I managed to watch it through live stream. The celebration tribute to Jeanne Lanvin as an inspiration and celebrating real women figure modelled by Amber, Violetta, Natasha, Malgosia. This season Monsieur Elbaz presented his Lanvin SS'15 collection were more relaxed, practical and elegant. From Lanvin's modern sleek Grecian dresses, slouchy oversized blazer, tailored tuxedo, beautiful fluidly trousers, boxy jacket, sexy short dresses, flowing long dresses to Lanvin classy brocade coat with amazing accessories; massive pearl chokers, gold cuffs, gold chains and beautiful classic box bags. It really complete the whole collection flawlessly. I love the fabrics that the maestros used onto the collection; rich fabrics like brocade, high quality satin, silk and lace. Not only that, Lanvin's footwear for this season were amazing; ankle length strappy heels, pumps and flat sandals look great for spring and summer. I'm amazed with Monsieur Elbaz amazing tailoring skill and scent of style. It's not easy to create a simplest thing become so chic. Based what I've observed, one of the best collection for this season. It's chic, simple yet pure glamour.
 
 
A brand that very close to most Parisian hearts. Famous with middle length full skirt dress, beautiful couture gowns and Charlize Theron as the star of J'adore. Yes, It's Christian Dior. A brand with a touch of classic and a drop of modernity continues its legacy. I managed to watch Dior show via live stream and I believe most die-hard fashion lovers has watched it too. I like the futuristic backdrop, bright light with pure white runway stage. It look like in a time capsule or fashion spaceship. This season Raf Simons presented his SS'15 collection for Dior are more slim-slander silhouette with ovoid shape in his designs. I realized that Raf bringing the same elements from his previous designs; 18th century yet with sparkle of modernity. I think it's a brilliant concept. I love from Dior's clean seam lines tops, slim fit tailored trousers, tops with brocade cuffs, classic ovoid shape dresses and skirts, sleeveless long coat with Bermuda shorts, Dior tailored dress-coat and suit with skirt, smock dresses, boxy bomber jacket to Dior's frock coat. Love Dior's quilted bags, beautiful chokers and cuffs and this season knitted boots. Wow! Simply mind-blowing. If I'm not mistake the small floral motif fabrics that Raf has used reminds me of vintage Dior. I'm impressed with Raf's artwork; such a great fashion innovation.
 
 
Ergonomic, Modern and Sleek are the new Celine that today we see. I personally love the new Celine style yet the classic Celine will always be the best reference to the brand. Famous with its leather luxury bags; the classic box bag, the classic bucket bag, the classic flip Kelly and the saddle. Now, Celine bags like the luggage tote, the nano, the phantom bag or the tie bag are the hot items by all fashionistas around the world. I would like to watch Celine show by invitation in future; If I have the chance it will be a splendid experience. This season Phoebe Philo presented her SS'15 collection for Celine are more tailored silhouette, crisp and not practically following current trends. It's fresh and edgy and that's why I loved this brand. From Celine's utilitarian crisp tops, tunic with cutout, wide leg pants, knitted tunics, fitted skirt and dress, asymmetric floral dresses, long coat and trench dress to Celine trapeze top and front slit fringed skirt. Phoebe complete the whole look with beautiful accessories; ceramic pendant necklace, string belts with bell, tote bag and clutch, and ballerina flats. Overall, the whole collection were practical, modern and something different yet not too complicated.
 
 
Chloe..Chloe..Chloe...oOoohh Chloe...A name that reminds me of a young French lady with wavy hair, fair-glowing skin, beautiful smile-happy, dressed up in flowing summer dress and lace up sandal. That is the way I memorized a Chloe girl and her signature look. What I've seen throughout the years, Chloe great success in sales as one of top favorite French brand and Chloe perfume has been listed one of the best scent last year, Bravo! Keep it up. This season Clare Waight Keller presented her SS'15 collection inspired by bohemian chicness. Models paraded her collection beautifully flawless specially dedicated to Chloe's founding designer, Madam Gaby Aghion, who sadly passed away at her home in Paris of age 93 a day before the show (May her beautiful soul rest in peace). Such a beautiful collection from Chloe's lace mini dresses with spaghetti straps, puffy-balloon sleeves blouses, high waist shorts, sweatshirt with jogging pants, beautiful lace poncho, maxi skirts with cargo pockets, oversized tailored blazer to Chloe's flowing maxi dresses. I loved the colour palettes and not forget Chloe's amazing bag collection and wedges lace sandals, something to adore this season. The whole collection really represent the true beauty of spring and summer. I believe that The late Gaby smiling down happily from heaven.
 
 
Givenchy! I don't why I feel so excited when comes to Givenchy scent of fashion. From the brand bag collection to haute couture creation, with a pinch of avant garde Givenchy style never fail for today's demand. For this season show, I'm happy that luckily enough managed to watch Givenchy clip show from a friend that shared me a link, who also a fashion blogger. Thank you so much dear. This season Riccardo Tisci presented his Givenchy SS'15 collection with rocker and bohemian influences. Interesting combination of elements into a great complete collection. What I really loved about this season Tisci giving more wearable pieces than awkward. From Givenchy's gladiator lace-up dresses, skin-tight leather pants, black and white latticed jackets and coats, beautiful lace tops, sexy pleated sheer skirt, stripe voluminous dress with puffy sleeves, tight corsets to Givenchy's flirty ruffle lace dress. Partner it sexy skin-tight thigh-high open-toe leather boots, boots with cross-tie fronts with crossover messenger bags to complete the whole look. Simply marvelous! Based what I've observed, Tisci done it excellently. It's a great collection little bit of gothic-romantic, sexy fantasy and a twist of badass girl no doubt Givenchy strong key trends always become industry's best influencer. I, myself love Givenchy style.
 
 
Stella McCartney, I always visualize Stella's scent of style; Active, Easy and Comfort. These three elements is a perfect combination into a brand for today's modern ladies. This season Stella presented her SS'15 collection were more relaxed, fluidly-soft and slouchy asymmetric silhouettes. Personally I loved Stella's collection. It look so comfy yet très chic and embracing women with real figure. From Stella's flowing silky dresses, baggy jumpsuits, silky trench coats, utilitarian shirts, loose skirts, symmetrical shaped dresses and with cutout, graphic motif tops, long tunics, skirts and dresses to her pinafore dresses partner it with cool strappy sandals and Stella's clutch and buckle bag, it really catch my attention via live stream. The whole collection were feminine and fresh. Yes, some may dislike all about the collection but I take it from a positive side. Most Stella's masterpieces are easy to style, comfortable and unique. I can imagine Stella's collection be a hot style this season by fashion bloggers and her loyal customers.
 
 
Famous with his beautiful applique technique or elegant detailing, mind blowing designs and spectacular runway show; Giambattista Valli is one of the best emerging designer. This season Giambattista presented his SS'15 collection inspired by the beauty of spring with 70's silhouettes. Everything so elegant and well-crafted, amazing detailing...Urgh! beautiful. From Giambattista's A-line mini dress with graphic detail on top, sweet A-line skirts with partnering sleeveless cropped tops, fringe mini dress, sleeveless tunic with wide leg at the bottom trousers to his beautiful leaves, feathers and cherry blossoms detailing on the dresses; using beautiful expensive fabrics like silk crepe and jacquards. A bold statement accessories; amulet choker, silver wristlet, amazing box and hand on bags and sexy bedazzled chain ankle strapped heels compliment the whole look flawlessly. Based what I've observed, Giambattista collection were elegantly romantic, exquisite and sophisticated. 
 
 
 
Can you imagine inside the beautiful Grand Palais turn into a chic magical show every season of fashion week. A sunny or windy day in Paris, a show that every fashion bloggers and fashionistas around the world praying hard wish to be there. It's everyone dream to attend Chanel fashion show and believe me it's not easy to get the access and invitation unless you're a top celebrity, loyal customer or Karl's favorite. I'm lucky enough that this season I managed to watch via live stream. It's easy for me to observe Chanel's key trends and details about the show. My jaw drop the moment I saw Chanel's spectacular backdrop and runway, exterior of the majestic Grand Palais turns into a beautiful lookalike one of Parisian street scene as "Boulevard Chanel". Karl Lagerfeld definitely a great maestro of today's fashion. I never feel bored with Chanel although a classic can end up stuck in one style but Chanel always bring new twist to make it feel fresh and in trend. I'm amazed with Karl's level of imagination and ability to recreate it into reality were amazing. This season Karl presented his SS'15 collection for Chanel are more street chic, modern luxury and uniquely wearable. Tweed fabrics and bright colour palettes was the main focus for this season collection. From Chanel's beautiful tailored double breasted suits with wide leg trousers, Chanel's signature jacket with long and short sleeves, bright colours capes with matching fitted skirts, bright colours sleeveless button-on shirt, cropped Chanel jackets with mini skirts, long tweed coat with bright print inner, Chanel tees, suede long shirt with matching pants, stripe cardigans, Men fitted suede jacket, black and white stripes pyjamas suits to Chanel's shimmery metallic small blocks of tiles dresses with great accessories; Chanel flap bags, tweed messenger bag, Chanel buckle belt and complete the whole look with amazing footwear. It was a perfect combination and well-balance collection. Glad to see my favorite top models paraded at Chanel show. The show ended with feminist riot, models toting banners and yelling expressions of women against violence and today's current world issue. I salute to Karl and Chanel's team. Some may argue the collection was terrible and overshadowed by extravagant backdrop. That's their personal opinion. I didn't see any slackness in Karl's vision and work. I see it as an excellent collection; try to open your mind like a fashion stylist; There's many great pieces that you mix and match from this collection and combine from Chanel's previous collection. My mum said to me that you can't play Chanel if you can't understand Karl's mind. He's a true risk taker like Gabrielle Chanel did.
 
 
I still remember the day that Signor Valentino Garavani told to the press that he will be leaving the industry and choosing Signor Pierpaolo Piccioli and Signora Maria Grazia to take his place, it was a mixed feeling yet I can't wait to see the new twist of Valentino. Now, I'm very impressed that Pierpaolo and Maria successfully brings Valentino into a new direction. Based what I've observed, they still interpreted the brand's signatures but with their own way of style. This season Pierpaolo and Maria presented their SS'15 collection for Valentino continues the brand signatures; femininity on the silhouette, fine art and bohemian chicness. It's fresh and artistic. From Valentino's pinafore dresses, tunic dresses, classic A-line dresses, button front shirts, voluminous maxi skirts, middle length and long coats, heavenly ruffle dresses to Valentino's beautiful flowing gowns with flat knee-high gladiator sandals as the finishing. Valentino's intricate beading and embroidery, knits, lavish materials with Baroque prints in amazing colour palettes really impressive. I love all the detailing in each of Pierpaolo and Maria's designs. It really capture the beauty of underwater and seashore. I have the feeling that few of Valentino's flowing gowns will be on the red carpet donning by our beloved top celebrities soon.
 
 
 
I started to love all Nicolas Ghesquière's amazing work; the new aura and changes that he brought to Louis Vuitton were amazing. Last season Monsieur Ghesquière presented his collection 1st time for LV it was interesting and different from I normally see. Sadly, this season I didn't manage to watch Louis Vuitton show on time but I did watch after the show via YouTube. This season Ghesquière presented his Louis Vuitton SS'15 collection more refined and grown up with a twist of 70's inspired silhouette. From LV's 70's sassy mini dresses, tailored blazers and pantsuits, crochet dresses, jackets with fur liners, leather jacket, mini skirts, suede cropped pants, tops, denim high waist pants to LV's shimmery sequins top with cropped pants with variety of fabrics, appliances and floral prints . The 70's style knee length and ankle boots, monogrammed bags on large tote, box bag and LV flap bag really catches my attention. Overall, the whole collection were edgy, fresh and stylish. Nicolas succeed blending LV fabulousity and badass edginess into a perfect collection. Oh yeah! I love it!
 
 
Classic touch, a pinch of Sweet and Innocent it always reminds me about one of my favourite brand; Miu Miu by Miuccia Prada. For those who didn't know, Miu Miu is taken from Miuccia nickname and this luxury brand separated from Prada. Miu Miu signature style are more ladylike and innocent while Prada style more strong and womanly. What I loved about this brand was the material and designs for the bag and shoes collection were amazing. Another good brand that I adore their aesthetic and always feel excited when comes fashion week. This season Miuccia presented her Miu Miu SS'15 collection are classic cuts of 60's silhouettes with a twist rebel rocker style. From Miu Miu's sassy cropped tops with ruffles, ruffle neck blouses, sexy pencil skirts, cropped pants with matching jacket, leather jacket to Miu Miu's structured comfy coats in beautiful fabrics like high quality wool, silk, cashmere, leather with beautiful bow heels, floral print wedges and Miu Miu latest bag collection it complete the whole look. Based what I've observed, this was a collection that felt fresh, sexy, classy yet rebellious chic; Miuccia plays Good Girl gone Bad for her SS'15 collection but in a positive way.
 
 
 
 
The last show of the spring-summer season is the last show Christophe Lemaire presenting his work for Hermès and will be replaced by Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski from The Row. Although, it's hard to say Goodbye but we still able to follow his creation through his own brand. I, personally can't wait to see what will Nadège presenting for Hermès; are she will bringing new vibes and twist into this luxury brand with her own way or continue the same pattern? For his last collection for Hermès, Lemaire presented his SS'15 collection more clean, relaxed with a little inspiration of safari & explorer; evoking an escapade somewhere in Africa. With warm and sand colour backdrop and runway path it really combine perfectly while models paraded the collection. This season you will see many comfortable outfits from Hermès like long tunics, loose dresses, cashmere with a collar wrapped like a scarf, pleated skirts, tailored blazer and cropped pants or in wide leg pants, sweatshirts, large jackets, long coats, jumpsuit and summer dress complete the whole look with strappy platform heels and juicy bag collection. It's a beautiful and well balance collection. I can see the softness and elegance in each of the designs. Definitely, Christophe Lemaire done his job very well and ended it perfectly flawless.    


[Images credit: PFW Photographers & style.com]

9 comments:

  1. Hi Mr.R! I’m very happy for our friendship on IFB! I watched a little bit your blog. Compliments. Really nice. this post is really exhaustive; these collections are beautiful !!! I wait you on my blog, kisses,
    Eni

    http://eniwherefashion.blogspot.it/
    https://www.facebook.com/eniwherefashion

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  2. Really good post! Love the designs! X

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    Replies
    1. Thank you Caramel Latte, Glad to know that you like it. xoxo

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  3. Awesome and very detailed recap!

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